Topical vitamin C

What can topical vitamin C do?

Some studies suggest that topical vitamin C can improve the appearance of uneven pigmentation. It is an optional part of a skincare routine, and results vary between formulations and individuals.

Choosing and storing a product

L-ascorbic acid can oxidise relatively quickly in water-based formulations, particularly with exposure to air, light and heat. Stability depends on the formulation, packaging and storage conditions.

Products may use air-restrictive packaging, water-free (anhydrous) formulations or other stabilisation strategies to help preserve the L-ascorbic acid. Follow the manufacturer’s storage instructions and recommended period after opening.

For the Propaira Vitamin C 25% Cream supplied at Spot Check Clinic, the manufacturer advises that it is an anhydrous L-ascorbic acid formulation and should be used within 3 months of opening.

How to use it

Follow the product instructions and any advice given during your consultation. Allow the product to absorb before applying other skincare products, and use sunscreen separately during the day.

Vitamin C does not replace sunscreen or other sun-protection measures. If pigmentation is new, changing or unexplained, have it assessed.

Side effects and warnings

Topical vitamin C can sting or irritate the skin. If irritation persists, stop using it and seek advice.

If you are having laser, IPL or microneedling treatment, ask your clinician when to pause and restart your skincare products.

Evidence

Studies have tested different vitamin C formulations and concentrations, so findings cannot be assumed to apply to every product.

Espinal-Perez et al., 2004: small trial of 5% ascorbic acid for melasma.